Lying just inland from Hermanus in the Overberg, Hemel-en-Aarde is a beautiful, sinuous valley famed for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Falling within the Walker Bay district, this 20-kilometre-long wine route overlooks the cool South Atlantic and is surrounded by nature reserves. ‘Hemel-en-Aarde’ means ‘Heaven and Earth’ in Afrikaans and according to a visiting Moravian missionary in 1899, ‘Rightly has it got its name because so high are the hills which closely embrace the valley all round, that they seem to touch the sky and you cannot see anything but heaven and earth.’
Hemel-en-Aarde is home to more than 20 wine producers and there are a number of factors setting it apart from other wine regions in South Africa. It is an area of unusual grape varietals; there are no large-volume producers making for relatively small quantity, top-end, terroir-driven wines; in terms of awards and trophies, the region is unrivalled; and the farms are almost all owned by the families that started them from barren ground. In addition, its (elevated) proximity to the Atlantic makes Hemel-en-Aarde one of the coolest, most maritime, wine-producing areas in South Africa.
Our plan was to take a slow meander up this enchanted valley. We left the R44, turned onto the R320 and headed towards Caledon, stopping regularly to experience Hemel-en-Aarde’s famed wineries, restaurants, delis and farm stalls.
Bosman Hermanus
First, we took a left off the R320 towards De Bos Dam and a low-slung, building appeared on the horizon, perched on the slope of a sweeping landscape. The modern, wooden Frame House is the venue for wine tasting at Bosman Family Vineyards. This cool-climate site produces a range of wines, which can be paired with a selection of locally produced snacks including cheeses, charcuterie, bread and preserves … or try their barista-made coffee.
The Bosman family have a history of growing wine in the Wellington region dating back to 1810. In 2000 they acquired this Hemel-en-Aarde farm to supplement their offering with cool-climate grapes. The vineyards here are planted between fields of indigenous fynbos and are close to the sea, creating a unique terroir and resulting in wines with minerality and finesse.
![Bosman Hermanus Bosman Hermanus](https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=2000&s=e4c8e060cc5d73906964cdb7227f4de9 2000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1800&s=aafd9669fc80633e0f1efecaefcb6ce6 1800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1600&s=de983d9181d374e6e1028897a66c160b 1600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1400&s=6fcf7c6e644b17e6a4d9a04c225eb911 1400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1200&s=67ccc36678bb049d9333060c9f917f75 1200w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1000&s=1fd5c6468f9d7dc7c84284fcef2d3bb7 1000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=800&s=9c7ae14d3010e8ff5dbc6e51c4cfa2e3 800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=600&s=eef879b8259f067696ae41d50673df96 600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=400&s=da199e9ba4c7d7928c8ed8c6fc0f4e70 400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Bosman-Hermanus.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=300&s=682e608ef06df5da7021fd29b1600087 300w)
📍: Bosman Hermanus
📸: Justin Fox
Bouchard Finlayson
Nestled between folded mountains and Walker Bay, the Koue Bokkeveld shale soil and cool ocean breezes ensure the grapes here ripen slowly and grow steadily to produce intense flavours. Bouchard Finlayson was established in 1989 as a collaboration between Paul Bouchard, celebrated Burgundian winemaker, and locally awarded Peter Finlayson. Together they produced world renowned wines, with Peter playing an instrumental role in pioneering the production of Pinot Noir in South Africa. Bouchard Finlayson aims for a balance of old-world ways and innovation in its wines wines.
The cellar offers wine tastings and deli platters, cellar tours, bespoke vintage tastings by appointment, as well as hikes through the farm’s pristine fynbos.
Hamilton Russell
This is the pioneering wine estate of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and specialises in highly individual, terroir-driven Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Owners Anthony and Olive Hamilton Russell are the second generation of the family on the property, which celebrated 40 vintages with its 2020 harvest. Direct sales are not a focus for the estate, but visitors can taste the wines at a beautiful historic cottage near the cellars overlooking a lake teeming with birdlife. Evidence of the estate’s World Wildlife Fund ‘Conservation Champion’ status can be seen in the pristine surroundings.
Newton Johnson
Lying nine kilometres inland from Hermanus, Newton Johnson’s vineyards are set high on the mountainside with superb views of the valley and Atlantic Ocean beyond. Admire the vista over a glass of award-winning Chardonnay or Pinot Noir in the pavilion lounge or on the deck, or have a delicious meal in the estate’s restaurant. Led by Dave and Felicity, the Newton Johnson family moved to the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in 1995. Their enthusiasm for Pinot Noir in particular has taken estate to new heights in exploring the nuances of this grape.
![Newton Johnson1 Newton Johnson1](https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=2000&s=64ff92e0a007a3b2a3a8320ca10e36a3 2000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1800&s=fcfc4ffba7fc4175df2681a3b7591c80 1800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1600&s=d568ccb02e7565a4a404f0a8856dd85d 1600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1400&s=eed16cf9d9b2ac12eae57a89a6d13832 1400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1200&s=586d832a5a23df68d409eea23f25fbe8 1200w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1000&s=ec8b1e2870486744266ba297c3b223a5 1000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=800&s=70cbc8d56b634a146e546acdd68e2ee7 800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=600&s=0e683ee2e05019bd7e1fb7cf17605a12 600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=400&s=f95aa110485b6e321ab7317e8694eda0 400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Newton-Johnson1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=300&s=85ef35158c57d6075c8c2f1bdcc0f348 300w)
📍: Newton Johnson
📸: Justin Fox
Ataraxia
Care is taken at Ataraxia to match rootstock choice to the vineyard soil type and sourcing the best scion material available. Ataraxia was founded in 2004 when husband and wife, Kevin and Hanli Grant and a few friends purchased this 47-hectare property. Kevin is a self-confessed ‘terroiriste’, crafting wines that hold their own on the international stage. The tasting room is perched on a hilltop at the foot of the Babylon Toring Mountain and has the appearance of a chapel. The funky interiors offer sumptuous views from comfortable couches surrounded by striking artworks … a great space to while away an afternoon of wine tasting.
![Ataraxia 3 Ataraxia 3](https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=2000&s=28e7344eedf6cb662048152b84a3cb6c 2000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1800&s=499bfa25b8d776be3f54f9d0e8400df8 1800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1600&s=4cf4db364aecba3a4a71993194e75f07 1600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1400&s=49e99b0e8fd9c5f50a030073fb50f397 1400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1200&s=f23dab9e2b33e09060a65d1210e3ed93 1200w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1000&s=14e18a5f273ec2fbbbb7b25c42706aa4 1000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=800&s=efcb63ac96a1c79e85b821b70d439712 800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=600&s=3bb418755d388d02da57f0dd2c8a7134 600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=400&s=3fcc6d756ecc8e79d8cbbd346941ed49 400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Ataraxia-3.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=300&s=73357fd4583e21a96176eae8184b8e84 300w)
📍: Ataraxia
📸: Justin Fox
Creation
In 2002 Jean-Claude (JC) and Carolyn Martin established Creation in a remote corner of the Walker Bay wine region, 18 kilometres inland from Hermanus. The hilly, 40-hectare farm on Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge had never been planted with vines before, but the Martins recognised the potential. It was no easy task in this undulating terrain, but then Swiss-born JC and South African-born Carolyn (née Finlayson) both come from wine pioneering stock spanning at least three generations and two continents. Today, Creation produces many award-winning wines that offer great balance and elegance. Visit their lovely restaurant and tasting room to sample the wine-and-food-pairing options.
![Creation 1 Creation 1](https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=2000&s=725f850453eec530cbfb06dc746d3c9a 2000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1800&s=6d8421d37744db5486495d77baa4e2df 1800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1600&s=7a501837ca815fd606bb91a799339440 1600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1400&s=eb541fcff4419e2f4d4a64d49602ea7c 1400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1200&s=01b0dde9d9e39e99375dd367400da6dc 1200w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=1000&s=def19940558f88721aec09ed611b8b92 1000w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=800&s=4185f15e536d051bed50995d4fdf9f65 800w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=600&s=15be47d21e67f5e906a8ec3127ae0cf0 600w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=400&s=4c655b27777fcbfde83c1971064767be 400w, https://wesgro.imgix.net/uploads/files/Creation-1.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=clip&q=90&ratio=&w=300&s=fa686955e61213199647915148608962 300w)
📍: Creation
📸: Justin Fox